Jumping Worms
Photo Source: https://www.maine.gov/dacf/php/horticulture/crazyworms.shtml
Jumping worms refer to multiple species of worms within the genus Amynthas. They are different than your typical earthworm and are considered invasive in Minnesota. Jumping worms actually live in the topmost layer of the forest floor — amongst the fallen leaves and other material that cover the soil.
Fallen leaves are organic matter that forests need to thrive. But jumping worms quickly turn the fallen leaves into very loose soil that resembles coffee grounds and ultimately deprive trees of essential long-lasting nutrients. For the homeowner, this species can tear through a garden destroying vegetation before their presence is even noticed. Unfortunately, there are currently no known, effective, legal ways to manage these worms in Minnesota.
Jumping worms have traveled around the United States in bagged garden mulch, bags of soil, fish bait, and potted landscape plants so be on the lookout. You can distinguish a jumping worm from an earthworm by their unusual behavior when disturbed – they move like a snake and sometimes look like they are jumping. Sightings in Minnesota are being reported to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture. If you think you have found an invasive contact arrest.the.pest@state.mn.us or call 1-888-545-6684.
Best way to control the beetles is to manually pick the plants from your plants. The beetle traps are not a good idea. While the traps attract and catch many beetles, many more are attracted than killed. There are ways to control the beetles when they are grubs, but use of pesticides should be limited since they are more dangerous than helpful for the Japanese beetles.
Japanese Beetles
These beauties are much prettier than they are friendly. There is a lot of information out there about controlling Japanese beetles…not all of it is accurate. Visit the University of Minnesota link to get accurate information for our area. Japanese Beetle Information from U of M
Best way to control the beetles is to manually pick the plants from your plants. The beetle traps are not a good idea. While the traps attract and catch many beetles, many more are attracted than killed. There are ways to control the beetles when they are grubs, but use of pesticides should be limited since they are more dangerous than helpful for the Japanese beetles.
A natural predator of the Japanese beetle, known as the winsome fly is starting to kill Japanese beetles in Minnesota and at the Arboretum, says the Arb’s Integrated Pest Management Specialist, Erin Buchholz. This parasitoid fly lays its eggs on the beetles. When the eggs hatch, the larvae burrow inside the Japanese beetle, causing it to lose ability to function, so that it will die in a matter of days, even before it lays eggs for its next generation.
As you can see in the photo below (taken of beetles sampled at the Arboretum), the eggs are laid in instances of one or more on the beetles’ backs on the thorax area near their heads. Since this is a fly you definitely want in your garden, letting beetles like this live might be worth any damage they cause. It may also be yet another reason to avoid traps and blankets of insecticides.
Learn more at tinyurl.com/winsome-fly
Aphids
Aphids are one of the most common insect pests found in the garden. They are tiny, range in color, and sometimes have wings. The best way to identify aphids is by tailpipes on their abdomen called “cornicles”.
Aphids target many garden plants as well as trees and shrubs. They like to suck the sap out of plants and excrete the digested sap as “honeydew”. This shiny substance attracts ants and can cause mold and fungi to grow on plants. Another sign of aphids are white exoskeletons or shed “skins” stuck onto plant leaves. For the most part aphids cause little or no damage to the health of plants. However, in some instances they can act as a vector by transferring plant viruses such as cucumber mosaic virus.
The best way to protect your plants from aphids is by inspecting them regularly and by removing weeds to reduce potential contamination sites. If you do find aphids, you can physically remove them by spraying high pressure water to knock them off.
Emerald Ash Borer
Photo source: https://extension.umn.edu/tree-and-shrub-insects/emerald-ash-borers
Emerald ash borer (EAB) is a very destructive beetle that has killed millions of North American ash trees. It is considered a quarantined invasive species monitored closely by the Minnesota Department of Agriculture.
The first step in protecting your ash trees is being aware of your current situation. Start by taking an inventory of your trees. How many do you have? How healthy do they appear? Then determine what zone you are in through resources such as your city foresters or MN DNR’s “emerald ash borer status map”. If you are near an affected zone taking preventative action will be your next step.
Do not bring in or use firewood from outside your county. Be aware of and vigilantly check for EAB signs and symptoms. These include canopy thinning/crown dieback, new growth near the base of the trunk, woodpecker damage, and, specifically, small 1.8” wide D-shaped exit holes in the trunk, s-shaped tunnels under splitting bark, and the presence of pupae/larvae/adults. The active period for adult EAB is around May 1 to Sept 30. If you see any please call 888-545-6684 or email arrest.the.pest@state.mn.us.
If your ash trees are within 15 miles of other infested trees, then yours are probably at risk. There are insecticidal options available to you as well as professional arborists. Be sure to consider treatment conditions, ecological effects, and cost when considering your options for treatment.
Fungus Gnats
At some point in your life you have likely dealt with fungus gnats in your home. They are those tiny flies about 1/16th inches long that fly clumsily in the air. While they are incredibly annoying, they actually do not damage houseplants. They are highly attracted to nutrient and moisture rich environments. Therefore, you often find them on houseplants that are over-watered, with decaying roots, and in potting soil high in organic matter such as peat.
Once of the most effective strategies to reducing fungus gnat populations is to allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry between watering indoor plants. Dryer soil will be less attractive to egg-laying females and will reduce the survival of eggs or larva present. Other solutions include placing yellow sticky paper traps in the pots and re-potting every so often.
